Kotobukiya Technique Impossible Eva-03 – Part 5: Further construction

This post covers various parts of the further construction of the Eva-03 Technique Impossible kit that require some additional attention.

Ankles & heels

On my previously built Eva-02 I noticed that the ankles were too flexible to properly support the kit for longer periods of time, causing the completed Eva to fall forwards after a while. Therefore, on my Eva-03 I pinned the long shaft regulating the ankle position to the polycap the shaft is inserted in. This considerably reduces ankle movement.

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The heels need to be glued to the inner frame after the ankles have been covered with a rubber part, but lack enough grip to actually stay in place. To resolve this, I drill a hole in each heel part, into which a piece of rod will be inserted that fits into the forward slot on the bottom of the inner frame’s heel:

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The drilled hole was then filled and sanded to remove all outside traces of it.

Upper legs

The upper legs need to have two polycaps sandwiched between the two leg halves. If these polycaps are cut according to the manual (Step 8), polycap P.C.D9 will be too narrow to fit snugly and may pop out after assembly of the upper legs when the knees or hips are attached, while polycap P.C.E4 will be too wide. Therefore, it is better to cut them to size progressively while test fitting the assembly, starting with the inner half of each leg. Be aware that the left and right upper leg are slightly differently proportioned, so the polycaps should be made to fit for each leg separately.

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Once the polycaps fit snugly, the upper legs halves can be glued to each other using thick gel superglue. I used masking tape to keep them together. The seams on the upper legs will need to be sanded down and filled to get rid of them.

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Arms

The upper arm frames don’t fit into the resin parts properly because a hole is located too far up the frame. I cut out the inside of the upper arms frame as shown in the pictures below. Finally, I used a thin slice of P.C.H1 to keep the upper arms frame together, thinner than the 1 mm thickness indicated in the manual.

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The lower arms consist of two resin parts sandwiching the elbow and wrist joints. The fit is so-so, but this doesn’t really matter much because these parts will be entirely covered by rubber parts on the finished kit. However, it does require pressing the two resin halves together while the glue dries:

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Shoulder pylons

The shoulder pylons attach to the shoulders with mostly ill-fitting plastic parts. Steps 10 and 11 show that the shoulders (specifically parts A5L and A5R) must be sandwiched between these plastic parts; however, this makes masking and painting the shoulders a chore. Therefore, I chose a different approach: (1) first make the shoulders fit between the plastic parts, (2) cut the plastic parts into two, and (3) glue the plastic parts together without the shoulders inserted. This way, the shoulder pylons and shoulders can be assembled after painting. I started off by making the shoulder parts fit into the plastic pylon halves. According to step 10 in the manual, the polycaps (P.C.D9) holding the shoulders in the pylons must be considerably cut down. If this is followed, the shoulders will fit very loosely and the pylons will flop around. The picture below shows how far I cut down the the P.C.D9 polycaps to ensure the right shoulder (part A5R) fit tightly into the pylon parts:

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You can also see a bit that I thickened the pegs on part A5R with Mr. Surfacer 500 to make them fit more tightly into the polycaps (the original pegs are somewhat too thin). Another thing to keep in mind is that it is very easy to swap the shoulders left and right, because they fit better the other way around (but that is wrong! Guess where I screwed up on my Eva-02…?).

I painted the inside of the pylon parts flat black, because it will be possible to look into the parts from certain angles once the kit has been completed.

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Then I cut the pylon parts right on a panel line to obtain a forward half and a rear half, and glued the left and right halves for the right pylon together:

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I then build a crude peg from styrene sheet to attach the actual pylon:

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And glued on the right-side pylon:

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The ugly seam that is visible is quite hard to remove and will need a lot of putty and sanding to obtain a smooth transition with the rest of the pylon.

With the right side parts done, I primed the resin shoulder parts, and then repeated the steps above for the left shoulder. The picture below shows how far I cut down the polycaps for the left shoulder; this is different from the right shoulder:

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Another thing that is different on the left shoulder is that the pylon can open up. The knife holder needs to be sandwiched between the two pylon parts that also sandwich the shoulder itself. However, on my Eva-02 I had noticed that the peg holding the knife holder in place was too short and only just prevented the knife holder from popping out of the pylon in some positions. So on this kit I added some styrene sheet to keep the knife holder in place. Start with a small piece:

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Add a little bit more that will also serve as the base for making an attachment point for the forward half of the pylon:

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And the knife holder is now held into place properly:

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You can also see I masked off the knife holder prior assembly of the pylon parts, as that was more practical.

At this point it was time to finish preparing the parts for painting and actually do the painting.

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