This is the continuation of my series of Blog posts on building a Kotobukiya Technique Impossible (TI) Eva kit – as is obvious from the title 😉 . When I build a model I generally don’t bother with the order given in the manual, instead grouping tasks and completing as many steps belonging to a task at once. In the case of a TI kit, the kit is to be build layer-by-layer, starting with the inner frame, then the rubber sleeves, then the first resin parts, and so on. I will try to make each blog post about a specific subject, so this one will tackle the inner frame, and the inner frame only (and no resin parts). This covers (part of) steps 1-6 and 8-9 of the manual.
- Screws need to be cut to size using a pair of side cutters. Generally this can be done after assembling the parts (and adding the nut), except in one case. Any remaining sharp excesses can be filed off with a metal file.
- Nuts are attached to screws the usual way, but I add a minuscule dab of blue thread lock (blue Locktite) onto the screw’s threads before adding the nut. This will keep the nut in place. You can also use some superglue, but that requires a fairly long drying period and you may glue yourself to the parts 😉
- If pegs don’t want to go into parts or fit very tightly, you can ream out the hole in the parts using a properly sized drill (you need metric drills).
- Most of the inner frame parts will need to have pegs from polycaps trimmed off whenever they stick out further than required. The manual only shows the most essential trims necessary. Refer to the pictures below to see what needs to be removed (pictures show parts with and without excess part of pegs removed).
Step 1-3 – Body frame:
- I do step 1 as shown in the manual, except for assembling the neck frame. I only insert the bottom polycap of the neck frame between the plastic parts making up the upper spine. I defer assembling the rest of the neck until later (see end of post), as assembling the neck as indicated in the manual will result in an assembly that will separate and fall apart when you try to install the head near the end of the Eva’s construction – fixing this is very difficult and will require cutting open a rubber sleeve.
- Step 2 is done as shown in the manual.
- The assembly shown in the left margin of step 3 is done as shown. However, I keep the assemblies completed in steps 1, 2, and 3 separate and do not prepare the sleeves yet. The first is done because inserting the inner body frame as shown in the manual is pretty much impossible, the second because I first want to wash the rubber sleeves.
Step 4 and 6 – Shoulder and elbow frames:
- Step 4 is done as shown, except I leave off the square 1mm slice of P.C.H1 polycap. The screw that goes into EV.C5 is difficult to get into position; this is normal. The P.C.E2 polycap that fits between EV.C8 and EV.C9 can technically be left out, by the way, unless you are building a clear model and want to display it without the rubber sleeves.
- Step 6 uses the upgraded parts included with non-limited kits, take care! I first assemble the EV.F3-EV.C14 assembly, and only then continue with the rest of the elbow. The elbow is easier to assemble by first inserting the small pieces of 1 mm diameter metal rod into EV.F1, EV.F2, and EV.F3, reaming out the holes on the EV.C13 parts, and then assembling everything. I don’t do anything with the resin parts shown yet.
Step 5 – Hips:
- I build the hips as shown, but with a small modification. Be sure to properly align EV.D11 (as shown in the manual)! Cutting the large screw requires quite a bit of force. Now when these assembles are completed, you’ll likely notice that the peg halves that are supposed to fit into the polycaps in the upper legs don’t stay together very well. So I recommend drilling a hole into the peg halves and inserting a piece of 1 mm thick metal rod to keep the peg halves together better, then gluing both halves together to be sure.
Step 8 – Knees:
- The knees also use the upgraded parts in non-limited kits. I first start by assembling the EV.D4-EV.F4 assemblies, and only then move the the rest of the knee. Once assembled, a lot of excess peg needs to be cut off.
Step 9 – Ankles:
- I put together the assembly shown in the left margin as shown. The assembly is a bit tricky and you may find yourself wishing for an extra hand, but by properly maneuvring part EV.D9 is becomes possible. The assembly shown at the right of the step is also done as shown, but instead of cutting down the screw after assembly I cut it down before. The screw, including the screw head, needs to be 9-10 mm long. Any longer, and you’re in for some complicated excavating on the inside of a resin part. Add a little dab of thread lock and attach the nut firmly, making it dig into the plastic. Instead of PC.B7 you can use a segment of P.C.J3.
The neck frame:
- The problem with the neck frame is that assembled as indicated in the manual it separates into its component pieces really easily. To prevent this, I build it as shown in step 1, then use a 0.5 mm drill to drill holes through various parts and use 0.5 mm thick metal rod to lock them together. Thus, I connect (starting from the top) P.C.D8 to P.C.E2, P.C.E2 to P.C.B8, P.C.A7 to P.C.D8, and finally P.C.D8 to P.C.B8. Then the neck frame can be attached to the upper spine.